French Lick & West Baden Springs: A Grand Little Getaway
For years, West Baden Springs Hotel kept showing up in my searches for road trip stops along I-65. I'd see that enormous domed atrium and think, what about there? Then I'd look at the map. Too far off the highway. Next.
Then we dropped our daughter off at college in Kentucky, and the question changed. We weren't looking for a convenient overnight anymore. We were looking for a way to celebrate. Just the two of us, no schedule to work around, nobody asking what's for dinner.
So instead of a quick stop, we made French Lick the plan. And yes, if you grew up when we did, you know the name: it's Larry Bird's hometown. For a Bye Birdie getaway, it felt only fitting to start where the most famous Bird in Indiana first took off.
Look Up: The West Baden Atrium
Some hotels look impressive in pictures. This one, the pictures don't quite prepare you for. The atrium is enormous and elegant, with the grandeur of another era but none of the stiffness of a museum. You'll find yourself looking up. A lot.
It's even sweeter knowing how close it came to disappearing. After years as a seminary, a college and then an empty building, part of it collapsed in 1991 before a major preservation effort brought it back. Historic photos are displayed throughout the hotel. We enjoyed strolling the hall to learn the whole story.
With live music during late afternoon, the atrium itself, and the courteous check-in process, we knew we made a great choice for our first long weekend of fall.
A Hayride to Dinner
Our first evening set the tone. The Chuckwagon Cookout starts with a hayride from the hotel out to The Stables Pavilion: horses grazing nearby, an open-air pavilion, a fireside meal, live music and rolling hills. One minute you're in a grand historic atrium. The next you're on a hay wagon, feeling a bit like kids again. Minus the kids.
My first time back on a horse after a hip replacement. I was nervous but it ended up being one of my favorite parts of the trip.
Get Back in the Saddle
The next morning we went back to The Stables for a trail ride. I was excited and nervous. I hadn't ridden since my hip replacement, and the last time I rode, my hip hurt. A lot.
The staff made it easy, our guide was great and our horses were sweet and well behaved. (I was not looking for a horse with a lot of independent thinking that morning.) We spent the ride on wooded trails near Hoosier National Forest, up and down hills and through beautiful countryside.
And my hip was fine. Something I'd been a little afraid to try turned out to be something I could still do, side by side with John. We left a tip, while not expected, it is encouraged, and the stables team really exceeded our expectations.
Make Pool Time an Actual Plan
For us, a good vacation includes time by the pool with a book and nowhere to be. Actually, that may be my entire definition of vacation for many trips. West Baden's outdoor pool isn't huge, but it's lovely: mostly adults, music playing, comfy chaises. (The French Lick Springs pool is larger and more family friendly.)
Order the burger poolside. It was ridiculously good, so good that we ordered it again the next day. You can stand inside a spectacular piece of historic architecture in the morning and spend the afternoon thinking, wow, this is a really good burger, while sunning with a cold lemonade. Both count as highlights.
Wander the Gardens Together
I noticed the gardens for a day or two,, before we decided to explore them. There is more to them than you expect. You start down a path thinking you'll take a quick look. Then there's a bridge. Then water. Then a springhouse. So you keep walking. Both hotels have gardens tied to their mineral springs past, including West Baden's Apollo Spring Gazebo and French Lick's Pluto Spring House.
A wedding was being set up when we visited, and it was easy to see why. Go in the late afternoon, take the path you're not sure about and linger on the footbridge a little longer than you need to.
Dress Up for Dinner at Sinclair's
Sinclair's Restaurant at West Baden is full of charm, with plenty of gold and historic detail. It felt like we were dining in another era. We're admittedly steak snobs, having been to many of the best steakhouses throughout the midwest, and our filets were certainly something we would order again. I tried one of the custom cocktails, too. While we are not big drinkers, I am a sucker for a tasty crafted martini or cocktail at dinner.
All our dining experiences at the resort were great. While you can explore local restaurants, you don’t have to.
End the Night With Jazz
After dinner we wandered through a French Lick Casino packed with college football fans given it was opening weekend. We then came back to find a jazz trio playing in the hotel library. We tucked into a corner spot and listened. Filet, football crowds and live jazz, all in one evening. This night - this trip - has range.
A Day of Wandering
Our last day had almost no agenda. We drove around Patoka Lake, stopped for a tasting at Patoka Lake Winery in Birdseye (a fitting stop for a Bye Birdie trip) and wandered back into downtown French Lick.
We ended up at French Licks for individual pizzas and small-batch ice cream. There are moments in life when the responsible choice seems irresponsible - a place called French Licks that makes its own ice cream is one of them. Pizza then ice cream - Yes Please!
One of our favorite days had almost no agenda. The Patoka Lake Winery tasting room was a fun spur-of-the-moment stop. Slushies and wines available for purchase or tasting.